How to Sew Your Own Skirt

An easy project for you and your overlocker, are sewing skirt with elastic waist. It’s so easy that you can spend a little of your sew-gunpowder to draw your own pattern for the skirt, according to your own body measurements. Then you get in most cases a much better fit than you would get with purchasing patterns.
You can find a guide on how to make pattern for – and not least how you can sew skirt with elasticated waist – in the online course “No.3 – Overlocker sewing techniques”.
And when you have made you an ordinary smooth jersey skirt with elastic waist, and is suburban quiet with sewing the skirt on your overlocker, I will challenge you to play with the pattern and further develop it to new designs. Here I will show you an easy change which you wrinkles one side seam up, so you get an asymmetrical bottom line in the skirt.
There are 2 reasons, I have chosen to wrinkle one side seam in exactly this skirt.
One reason isthat I’m about to have a lot of perfectly straight jersey skirts with elastic in the waist. It gets a little boring in the long run. But they are something so practical when you have small children, who suffer from the delusion that adult clothing is there to wipe greasy fingers and snot noses by in. It gives quite a lot of laundry, which toils quite a bit on your clothes. And so it is nice with clothes that are not too expensive and not take too long to sew.
But the main reason for that it was exactly this skirt, who won the competition to be awarded an extra detail, due to the substance.
It’s a pretty delicious viscosejersey from one of the big fashion houses (I’ve forgotten which as usual), purchased in Silk House in Copenhagen. The problem with it is that it is round knitted of a single color, and printed with a faucet fjeds pattern in its construction resemble cubes, and therefore must be straight both vertically and horizontally.
It is a problem, because the circular knitted fabric has only one trådretning, and it is the vertical. Without otherwise to go into the details of how knitting machinery works (this is an area I have yet to delve into), so it happens with print on the circular knitted jersey, that it’s going to sit crooked in comparison to trådretningen cross, which we’d like to be there, but that does not really exist when the fabric is knitted round.
This means that the pattern in black skirt here at, moving diagonally upwards. The PCB is simply wrong in relation to the horizontal direction in the drug, when it fits with the vertical trådretning. And trådretningen always wins, so it’s not a solution to turn the average pattern a little, so that the PCB will be less biased.
A good solution is to camouflage the skewness in the PCB, using pleats, draping or wrinkles. And here it is therefore the wrinkles, we must have a hold of.
You can use several different sewing techniques to wrinkle your fabric. The one I have chosen for you this time, consists of a wire on each side of the seam, which wrinkles fabric. It gives a little more “solid” rynkning, and it provides the ability to manage the wrinkles more than if it was simply a single wrinkle thread. I like best the sewing techniques, which allows me to adjust and change along the way, and by that wrinkle the fabric by hand I get the control over the design, I would like to have.
Here you get a first picture of the finished skirt, and then comes the wizard to sew wrinkle-detail. At the bottom of this post you can see a video where I demonstrate the problem with the PCB on the circular knitted jersey, and shows how dy sews the wrinkled side seam detail.
Wrinkly in the side of the skirt – here’s how:
First, you have found out how much Wrinkly you will have in substance, and how far up on the skirt, frown. To do this most easily by ri a sewing thread at the side of the skirt as a wrinkle line, and then try in front of the mirror, for you have a length and amount of Wrinkly, which suit you and the skirt.
The bottom of the skirt is going to hang a bit like an old curtain, and it’s not that fat. So you must have cut a bit of the bottom, to make it look more straight out. You need to cut in a slightly curved line from the base of wrinkled to the bottom of the other side seam. Line on this picture is the first swatch. Subsequently trimmed I further 2 cm of length.
Then you should start to wrinkle right. Start with selecting the top of frown with a small stitches in the hand, and target where by far the wrinkled piece must be when it is finished. Then you take a slightly heavy thread, for example. an embroidery thread or wire a jean that fits in the color of the skirt. The sew you over with zigzag stitches, so that it will be kept down to the fabric. Sew the first from the bottom and up to your mark, then on across the seam with ordinary stab stitch, and then zigzag back down along the other side of the seam. It is important that you do not sew in the thread, but that it is in the midst of zigzag stitches. You can see in the video at the end, how you are doing.
When the thread is sewn on the fabric, you can drag the ends of the bottom and push the fabric up to the mark you made earlier. Arrow ritråden/mark the thread out before you wrinkle the fabric. You must wrinkle until you have the length on the wrinkled piece, you have determined you for. And so should you attach the cord ends with a PIN, then you can try the skirt and see if it still is the length of the Wrinkly, you will have. This method gives a slightly different expression in frown than the method you were using when you tested to start with, so it may well be there is need some adjustments.
When you are satisfied with the wrinkled piece, so you the strong cord ends in a threader needle, sew them on the inside, and Staples them in the seam allowance from the side seam.
And then you are ready to sew the docking in the skirt. I have chosen to sew a 3-ply rullesøm, for not having to have a folded edge at frown. And in order to keep the length of the skirt, which fits very well as it is. But there are many options for decommissioning in Jersey, and you can view them in the online course “No.3 – Overlocker sewing techniques”, which you can read about HERE <<
Sew you rullesøm as I have done, so be sure to test your settings in a drug residues before you SEW in the skirt. It may require a few seams, inside you will find the perfect setting the stitch length, stitch width and differential for the substance. In this fabric teased the PCB a little, because the fabric surface is different in the white areas, where the PCB is. It took 5 attempts before I had a rullesøm that was easy to manage and so nice out. You can also read about everything in the online course.