Buying Advice – Poppy, Naughty And Different
Not only in Switzerland, which is known for its watchmaking industry, but also in Germany, many new watch brands are emerging. See five selected brands and their models: some of the timepieces are poppy, cheeky and different, like the music of the eighties. But on this new German wave, watch brands with classic designs and traditional craftsmanship are also on the way.
Young German Watch Brands: # 1 The Extravagant – Ballfinger
The first models of the Ballfinger brand, which have been available since November 2012, are very unusual. Your designer Roland Schneider from the North Rhine-Westphalian Monheim a three-hour clock and a chronograph with Eta works. While the use of variable housing components such as B. Junge & Söhne has already been heard, the so-called Z-frame may be unique: the term describes a housing frame which can be opened in a z-shape and thus serves as a clasp.
For a soothing sound and feeling when closing the frame, a ball ratchet is provided on the lower flank of the actual housing. What you have on your arm is certainly not a subtle, elegant timepiece. Rather, the shape and size of the 42 by 42 millimeter shell as well as the almost as wide metal rubber bracelet ensure the watch is immediately visible to every viewer. The high wearing comfort is surprising: because the case and the large wristbands are made of light-weight aluminum, the watch is not a bit copied. In addition, due to the special overall construction, there is no clasp that could be noticed on the arm.
However, one thing is expressly said: the housing, the components of which are milled from a solid metal block, consist exclusively of corners and edges. As a result, it is not advisable to wear expensive long-sleeved shirts over the watch or to touch the case with the other hand: damaged cuffs and distinct seams would result. Even when you put the watch, the many corners on the case and the bracelet can pierce the skin; but when the Z-Frame is closed on the arm, the slightly unpleasant mooring is quickly forgotten.
In terms of operation, joy and suffering are close to each other: the pushers can be operated very comfortably, since they have large functional surfaces and stand exactly perpendicular to the housing edge thanks to a special lever technology. Unfortunately the crown does not hold what the pushers promise: thanks to its smooth surface and its proximity to the pushers, it is difficult to turn, and the pulling was possible with the test clock – at least for desks – only with the help of a pair of pliers. Better than the operation of the crown, the reading succeeded. All pointer lengths are right, the scales have been divided sensibly, and the date and weekday are perfectly recognizable. Only the small thickness of the hands prevents the time from showing with a single glance.
The technically-reduced instrument design plays in a successful way with the contradiction between square and circle: bezel, auxiliary dials and also the crown and pusher create an attractive contrast to the extremely square housing. The tried and tested automatic movement Eta Valjoux 7750 in the basic quality “Elaboré” ticks in its interior. Because the work is located behind a massive floor, Roland Schneider has decided against elaborate embellishments and only has the rotor fitted with a discreet Geneva stripe.
Young German Watch Brands: # 2 Tradition And Modernity – Genesis
Christine Genesis is watchmaker and produces high-quality mechanical wristwatches in small limits. Three criteria determine their work: quality, style and individuality. All models are characterized by clear design, good readability and attention to detail.
Even before the training Christine Genesis knew that she wanted to build her own watches from Timedictionary. Passion for young people became a profession: After the training, many years of professional experience followed, among other things in one of the largest watch workshops in Europe.There, she learned about the functions of all high-quality watch brands. This knowledge and the 25-year professional experience she uses today to build her own watches. After almost ten years of self-employment, her name stands for quality products from Hamburg.
At the Genesis watchmaking market, everything goes through their hands: planning, design, construction, processing of the movement, assembly and controls. Christine Genesis exclusively uses mechanical Swiss movement, which partially modifies it with a big date, a gear reserve display or a day indicator. The plates and bridges are fined with decorations, which are visible through the glass bottom of the watches. The housings are milled according to their own design from a special stainless steel alloy, the surfaces are highly polished, satined or with fine glass bead matt-blasted – according to the customer’s request. The elaborately produced dials are manufactured in approximately 30 steps according to Christine Genesis’ designs, all appliqués are riveted by hand. Before the sale, extensive final checks are carried out, such as checking the accuracy of the gear in five layers and the watertightness as well as various function checks. Each model is individually numbered and manufactured in a deliberately small limit. Christine Genesis received the Bavarian State Prize in 2011 and the Hamburg Handicrafts Prize in August 2013. Your watches are only available in direct sales.
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Young German Watch Brands: # 3 The Striking – Hæmmer
The Hammers Germany GmbH is based in Kamen near Dortmund and was established in 2008 by Managing Director Holger Bohne and Jeroen Opdam. They do not want to be among the watchmakers of the broad masses, and so their watches stand out at the same time by oversized dimensions and a classic-elegant design. This includes a crown, which is placed on the left side of the housing, which is designed to provide extra comfort and the laser engraving of the logo on the right side of the housing. All Hæmmer models are limited to 999 copies, each of which carries its individual serial number as a laser engraving at the front housing edge. In addition, each watch is equipped with stainless steel fittings on the bracelet. The case diameters are 45 millimeters for ladies models and 50 millimeters for men’s watches.
Only calibrated calibers from the manufacturer Citizen are used to drive the watches. The bolted crown and the screwed case back of each watch also help ensure that the watch movements are protected against water up to 10 bar.
The Noblica Ambassador by Hæmmer Germany combines rosé gold-colored hands, indexes and the rosé-golden IP-coated housing flanks with a black dial and calfskin strap.The bezel of the 50-millimeter stainless steel case also gets its black color through the IP process. The three-time watch with date and small seconds is powered by the automatic caliber Miyota 8218 and costs 399 euros.
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Young German Watch Brands: # 4 The Technical – UTS
In 1999, the engineer for mechanical engineering and manufacturing Nicolaus Spinner founded his own sports watch brand UTS (watch technology spinner). There are no standard components in the housings: All components are self-computed and are milled from the solid in Germany. UTS is able to produce only a few hundred watches a year in Holzkirchen, south of Munich, thanks to the craftsmanship instead of industrial production and extensive load tests.
In the basic model of UTS, the Adventure Automatic, one thinks almost inevitably, as with all timepieces of the brand: A strong piece! With a diameter of 46 millimeters and a height of 15.5 millimeters, it is a real chunk – masculine, not refined, but nevertheless equipped with many exciting (housing) details. The first option is the optional crown protection, which is optionally available at a price of 100 euros. Like all other housing components, the crown protector is milled from solid steel and fastened with allen head screws – a specialty of Nicolaus Spinner, who is the engineer who chooses the best technical solutions. The same screws hold the bandsticks and the bezel, but unfortunately not the otherwise very beautifully made pin buckle. Everything at the Adventure Automatic from the case over the large Eta-Valgranges caliber A07.111 up to the wide rubber band is solid and robust; The latter, however, is somewhat too thin to form a sufficient counterweight to the bullish watchcase. However, the watch is quite comfortable on the arm and does not bother in everyday life or on the mountain. Only when you want to pull your sleeve over your watch or grab it in your pocket, it becomes tight. In short, the Adventure Automatic is not suitable for the opera or gala evening – but for almost anything else. Particularly for sporting challenges, such as impacts, perspiration and contact with dust or water.
An overview of all watch brands in Germany is our special with interactive map – try out here!
Young German Watch Brands: # 5 The History-Conscious – Tourby Watches:
His grandfather’s watch awoke the passion for mechanical timepieces in Erdal Yildiz. In 2007, the watchmaker realized his dream and founded the brand Tourby Watches. Today, classical clock models are being built at attractive prices in the Westphalian town of Hagen.For watch brands like Tourby Watches the own online shop offers the right sales form. The Erdal Yildiz collection includes, in addition to flying and diving watches, historically appealing models. These are among other things inspired by old pocket watches or Turkish watches with old-Ottoman figures. Yildiz also manufactures individual timepieces according to the wishes of its customers, with the USA being the largest customer base. All components of the watch models were manufactured from suppliers in Switzerland and Germany from the beginning according to the owner’s ideas. In the workshops in Hagen and Bochum, Yildiz works together with two clockmakers, an engraver, a precision mechanic and a goldsmith in the finishing and assembly of his watches. All service work is carried out there as well.
Inside the timers, besides Eta and Sellita works , old American pocket watches and theUnitas 6498 caliber are also ticking . Since 2013, Tourby Watches has installed a modified version of the well-known pocket watch caliber in most of its watches. In collaboration with a small Swiss watchmaker, the unit 74.3 was developed from the Unitas factory. In the studio some of the workpieces are produced, the factory is also installed there. The new caliber will be equipped with a guilloched glash nut three-platter, glash nut sundials on the elevator wheels, goldchatons, a swan neck fine adjustment and perlage on the base board as well as on the anchor bridge. Some of the refinements and decorations are made by Tourby Watches itself. The plant was upgraded not only visually, but also technically: the number of strikes was increased to 21,600 half-oscillations per hour and the power reserve extended to 52 hours.