Ultimate Guide and Jackets Jackets Leather Man

After an infinitesimal series of articles on how to wear a jacket, a suit, I go in and best, it was time to move on and become # #wild and rock’n’roll (as it has obviously always the case).

We had not spoken here, so we will discuss (on two large items), the subject of leather jackets.
Of course, we will talk about the history, materials etc, but this time too without going into details for the most technical points: you have the tools to have a comprehensive understanding, and some links to check out if you want to go further.

Go further

A big outerwear guide will come out soon: it will focus EVERYTHING you need to know to choose a jacket or coat for mid-season and winter.
There will be a large selection of brands, with a tric their best products and sites where to buy cheaper.
It will surely the biggest JamaisVulgaire guide ever released (after dressing well in 7 clicks of course) and its output will be scheduled for October 11. (I’m in Paris right now and I can link the appointment to offer many new brands of tests so I can not move it until October 5).

I The story of leather jackets

Creates the legend in 1910 by a Mr. Walter, the leather jacket was basically made of odds and ends in response to a purely functional requirement. The first were the bomber jacket, known mainly for their comfort and-lasting durability, and not really for the precision of their cut. They were early sheepskin with fur inside to keep warm.
The leather had several practical advantages: it is the material that best suits the shape of your body over time and if you have a slightly curved leather, you’re probably already realized, it is waterproof , durable and resistant.
Which explains that it is used by bikers for protection. The leather is also resistant to heat, wind, and abrasion is a naturally breathable material.

Entry into the culture with the perfecto

The perfecto, he was created in 1928 by Irving Schott to dress Long Island bikers on their Harley Davidson. Schott is a reference brand for the leather jacket, and its flagship model is still, 84 years later.
These motorcycle jackets are derived from those for pilots and aviators, set with a thickness and a reduced length to fit their needs.
Besides their practical function in everyday life, they quickly integrate a cultural dimension. This is the form of the bomber, but mostly Perfecto, the name of the favorite cigar of its inventor, they are popularized through film. Gary Cooper Indiana Jones
Marlon Brando focus specifically perfecto in the film The Wild Ones.
Nowadays, it is also with Matrix and long black leather, and especially Terminator Fight Club and the famous red leather Brad Pitt;
The shapes vary and the most original designers like Rick Owens and Barnabé Hardy are worn by pop star, Black Eyed Peas and Kanye West Jay-Z.

Jackets styles

Among casual leather jackets, there are three quite common styles:
-The bomber jacket
One of the most popular and versatile forms of leather jackets. They were the basis designed for pilots in cockpits and OPEN are scheduled to hold really warm and well insulated. This is where comes the famous elastic ribbed cuffs and waist to prevent air from infiltrating and with a lining and a fur collar to keep warm. They can be worn in a casual or more formal dress légèremennt.
This kind of jacket is an integral part of military culture but will be more suitable for some middles developed.
Wear with combat boots, a chunky knit and a good raw denim
– The dish , made popular by James Dean, can be a good solution for fine morphologies. Its elastic waist serves to highlight the V easier (but should be avoided if you have a little overweight).
To wear with boots, a chambray shirt and a little skinny jeans.
– It perfect
Created in 1928 by Irving Schott, the perfecto (the preferred cigar named Irving Schott) dresses from the Long Island bikers on their Harley Davidson. Schott is also thanks to this model a reference brand for leather jackets: 84 years later, the perfecto is still their flagship piece.
He quickly became a cultural icon through film, including Marlon Brando in The Wild Ones.
This is probably the most culturally anchored the leather jacket in our minds. No need to be a Harley biker to wear, but you will still need a well-defined style already.
– Collar biker
The more loose and unstructured model. A more refined version of the perfecto, more slim and without the many and varied finishes (lapel, shoulders, belts, asymmetrical closure)
has a version less pointed and more versatile that will more easily in a casual outfit. Warning against by avoiding the combination kills the ultra stiff collared shirt over with a soft collar biker dangling.
A2 jacket
This is the most versatile for me 4 types jackets because you can scan the spectrum from formal to casual. They can be worn completely in tears with an open shirt: this is what was proposed byHedi Slimane in his show. And he also beautifully with a basic shirt, V-neck sweater or cardigan and a plain jeans.
Most are minimalist: those that I will offer you just have a few pockets, inspired by Dior model.They also have the famous zip sleeves, leaving the choice to wear them so tight fitting or looser as the Dior fashion show (right).
Varsity
A good mix for me between leather jackets and streetwear, but everything depends on the contrast material and color. We usually have a torso in wool and leather sleeves. Or you could also have a beautiful contrast between a leather suede chest and sleeve lambskin or calfskin leather.

Risky jackets

Caban
A pea coat is wool, and that’s it. A leather pea coat is not quite as versatile and is much more difficult to bear. Except if you type in the ultra-luxury, but we will not be in view of the best quality / price ratio possible.
Variant
The leather trench, to avoid too (unless you want to go for the least discreet private detective in the world).
Leather Blazer
I put it in the same category as the pea coat. A black leather blazer is super hard to wear, we must find other materials and other colors but it will always be far from satisfactory versatility.

II Criteria to observe

1 Simplicity and minimalism finishes

In leather jacket, there LEATHER: it is he who will justify your entire investment. If you do not highlight correctly, so buy a jacket in technical, it will be poor and less expensive.
When we want to emphasize the material on a part, it must be MINIMALIST.
Do not lose a lovely lamb leather immersed in an overflow seams, fasteners, buttons (sic) or pockets.
Except in the case of a perfecto jacket or a goth ninja style, opt for the simplicity.

Finishes

For zipper closures leather: it’s either RIRI (a must) or YKK (good mid-range).
The buttons on closures are only suitable for specific styles (usually suede leather bombers): Avoid for lamb nappa leather or immersed.
On leather teddy kind, it goes very well also:

The cup:

Simple: it must be fittée. Be especially vigilant on elastic ribbed waist: If the jacket does not suit you perfectly, it will make you a back completely packed.
Especially to buy than it is monitored for alterations still very expensive.

Material

This is especially das this part where I really like to present you a very general overview of what is done, but without going into details. In the subject is not my passion, and other hand Romain Rousseau (home Modissimo) talked already about BonneGueule and I certainly do not do it better than him.
We also had already addressed the issue for leather shoes: the blow soon enough we will pass on the concept of flower.
All material zooms are derived from the Exception site, I selected them for the quality and detail of the photograph.
What changes especially a leather one for your outfit is the rigidity and thickness:
-cow leather, cordovan: rigid, heavy and durable. Not necessarily pleasant and soft to the touch and made to be broken in as and ports. A bit like a raw denim.
Calfskin home Hoon
-lamb leather: soft and light with a nice touch ultra
Lamb leather with Florian Denicourt
-goat between veal and lamb. The grain and pores are much more pronounced.
-Buffalo and bison: by far the heaviest, often used for functional leather with real protection function.
-Pork: to forget, touched plastic, shiny and very resistant

Treatments

This is what our confused most of the time: the finishes are in leather that is weaving a fabric.
Let’s see the differences succinctly (and ditto Romain Rousseau will speak in detail better than I though of Adventure topic interests you)
-Nappa: a process of long and technical tanning applied to a full grain leather sheep or lamb which brings softness, flexibility and durability. This is one of the more qualitative types of leather that can be obtained, but the price is also quite high (large minimum 200 euros)
-Aniline: Aniline is a chemical compound used to color and soften animal leather without removing natural shades. It is usually applied to cow leather, sheep and buffalo. This treatment allows a more breathable skin and is particularly suitable for brown and bronze leather.
-Nubuck: the top layer of a full-grain leather is scratched for a velvety finish and sandblasted similar to suede. Quality is nevertheless much better (and the price too). This type of material is also more vulnerable to water and must be waterproofed
-Suede: is used to skin a more fibrous leather with a matte finish but the durability of a full grain leather. It easily discolor upon contact with water unless a waterproof treatment.
-Leather drop: the top layer is cut into thinner slices, all that to keep an appellation 100% leather. To avoid

III Styles

1 Jackets vintage purists

The most common denim jackets listed on itypejob.com are those used for aviation and the bike they have lots of character and character. One can find such aircraft models A1 buttoned or zipped A2.
For biker jackets, this is typically biker collar and perfecto.
They are sometimes taken by pointed and heritage brands like RRL, keeping the same material and the same cut but adapting to an urban context.
Avoid obviously have an outfit too clean by wearing: the ideal will always chinos or jeans worn.

2 Current jackets, influenced by fashion

They include actually three quarters leather jackets that you will find: the typical example would be the mythical 5 zips Martin Margiela, a reinterpretation of the single jacket biker made by the two diagonal zips share and other torso.
This category can include both casual streetwear that the avant-garde
– streetwear casual: There are brands like Golden Bear, obviously MKI or APC
– avant-garde: it attacks the ninja goth style with Rick Owens Julius or MA +
He obviously is less stylistic general rule for this category and you will not wear a Margiela 5 zips like a Rick Owens jacket collar fireplace. The casual streetwear will be easy with raw denim jeans, sneakers or boots and a shirt and sweat a little textured.

3 The formal leather jackets

It exists, but I do not recommend it in terms of durability / price: they are proposed by tailors brands such as Brioni, Zegna and Canali. . Or at Brooks Brothers
. This is reinterpreted versions and significantly polissées of aviation jackets or biker fashioned from lamb high quality leather
It therefore makes them pretty good laptop with a formal wardrobe: shirt . cotton poplin pants or wool
The brown can also do well with formal textures of nature as flannels with motifs Prince of Wales: this kind of jacket is worn is simply like a sports jacket and can really be versatile.

Go further

A big outerwear guide will come out soon: it will focus EVERYTHING you need to know to choose a jacket or coat for mid-season and winter.
There will be a large selection of brands, with a tric their best products and sites where to buy cheaper.
It will surely the biggest JamaisVulgaire guide ever released (after dressing well in 7 clicks of course) and its output will be scheduled for October 11. (I’m in Paris right now and I can link the appointment to offer many new brands of tests so I can not move it until October 5).